A Student's Vladivostok
Student Travel in the Russian Far East with Michael Smeltzer
a project of The School of Russian and Asian Studies

Michael Smeltzer (right) getting "married" in a mock ceremony in Siberia showcaseing local traditions.

About the Project: A Student's Vladivostok is a project of The School of Russian and Asian Studies (SRAS). In an effort to let other students know where the good student grub is and where to go for entertainment in Vladivostok, SRAS's Home and Abroad Scholarship recipient will give you a weekly insider's peak into what it's like to call Vladivostok, Russia "home" for an academic year! 

The SRAS Home and Abroad Program offers $10,000 to students who want to build translation, writing, research, and language skills at home and abroad. Find out more!

01/04/2012

Приморский КВН Финал / Primorsky KVN Final
Fesco Hall, Vladivostok 
Cost: 200 per ticket
 

Two hilarious stand up teams from the KVN competition in Vladivostok

I was lucky enough to get invited to this cultural event by my Russian friend, Lena, who had acquired some tickets through work. Like most Americans, I assume, I had never heard of КВН and all I knew about it was that it was some sort of comedy show. I went in thinking that I probably wasn’t going to understand many of the jokes, but decided to give it a try since my friend was giving me a free chance for a cultural event.

КВН stands for Клуб Весёлых и Находчивых, or The Club of the Fun and Inventive, and is celebrating its 50-year anniversary this year. There are many different levels of competition ranging from televised leagues, regional and inter-regional leagues, and student leagues. I attended the final of the Primorsky КВН League. Five teams had made the finals after advancing through many rounds of competition over a few months. Three of the teams were local Vladivostok teams from the Far Eastern Federal University and Vladivostok State University of Economics, and the other two were from the cities of Artyom and Nakhodka. The competition was judged by celebrities including a Moscow “КВНщик” (the name for the competitors) from the federally televised national competition.  

The competition took place over 5 rounds: the “greeting”, a round of rapid-fire improvised responses to funny questions, the biathlon (a sort of joke shoot-out round), a video clip round, and the final “musical assignment” round. From the get-go, the team from Nakhodka set themselves up as the crowd favorite. Unlike the other teams, that team developed ridiculous roles and characters for their team members, which they stayed in during the whole competition. The final, “music assignment” round was by the far the highlight of the competition. The teams came up with original skits that included a musical number. The best sketch of the night came during this round, when one of the members of the VGUES team, “United Brisket,” did a very realistic impression of President Dmitry Medvedev. He had the 50-year-old man sitting next to me in tears with his perfect timing and expression (he more than slightly resembled the President). In the end, the team from Nakhodka ended up the winner, though United Brisket came in a close second.

If you’ve never had the chance to watch КВН, whether a live show of one of the minor leagues or the premier league on TV, I highly recommend you check it out online. In fact, here’s a link to the video of the entire final that I attended. КВН is known to all Russians and thus has a huge cultural influence. It’s a way for people to joke about politics, current events, and Russia’s quirks. At this final, the majority of the jokes were directed at the Duma elections and the recent fire on Vladivostok’s yet-to-be finished bridge. All in all, this was a cultural event that stood apart from the typical museum or local sight visits. If you’re anywhere in Russia for an extended period of time, check out the local КВН league wherever you are!

01/18/2012

Pizza Land
ул. Фонтанная, 35 
Hours of Operation: Daily from 10am - 10pm
Price: $7-$10
 

Above: A tasty, cheap Hawaii Pizza from Pizza Land. Below: Pizza Land is known by its English name.

A tasty, cheap place for pizza in Vladivostok is the appropriately named Pizza Land. It’s located downtown, a few blocks from the Semyonovskaya bus stop. Pizza Land does have some expensive items on its menu, but if you can resist the temptations to have a pizza with caviar and calamari on it, you’ll find the restaurant to be a great stop for some cheap eats.

Pizza Land is cozy and its mirror-lined walls make for the perfect opportunity to cheat at cards. The few times I’ve been there, I’ve gone with friends, and have always found it a very comfortable place to spend a few hours hanging out. The staff is uncharacteristically friendly for Vladivostok and the service is prompt. Some places struggle to turn out 3-4 pizzas at a time, but this place is very professional. The dining hall is fairly large and works well for groups of 4 to 6 people. The last time I visited, Eminem (from his earlier days) was being blasted, but it didn’t ruin the mood.

While the environment is pleasing, I still think the food is the highlight of the restaurant. While Pizza Land offers a variety of hot and cold dishes, pizza is obviously the focus. What I found really nice about this restaurant is not only do they offer the option of a small or large pizza, they also have a choice of crust size, which is rare in Vladivostok. So, you can grab a small, personal sized pizza for 7 dollars, or you can share a large pizza with a friend from 11 dollars. I’m typically stuffed after a few pieces, so a large pizza is perfect for two or even three. But, if you need more, the menu also includes salads (120-210 rubles), pastas (170-300 rubles), and a few soup options (120-190 rubles), as well as some rather pricy fish and meat entrees.

The last time I visited Pizza Land, I went with a friend and we ordered a Hawaiian pizza for 340 rubles and a pot of tea for 70. We both left satisfied and each only 205 rubles poorer. In the end, Pizza Land is a reasonable cheap eats place, so long as you avoid those more costly items on the menu. Whether by yourself, on a date, or with a group of friends, it’s worth a try!

For groups and faculty-led tours, you could fit 12-20 students here. As long as you call ahead, it's a good place for a group.

12/30/2011

Оки Доки / Oki Doki
(Pizzeria and Russian Café)
Алеутская, 11 
Pizza for 208 Rubles

Above: Oki-Doki's sleek exterior.

There are quite a few pizza places sprawled about Vladivostok. You’ve got Pizza land, Pizza Bar, Pizza Mia, etc. But, in general, most places are going to charge you upwards of 350 rubles (around 11 dollars) for a medium pizza. As a former college student, I understand that sometimes all you want is a greasy slice of pizza and I found the perfect place to that in Vladivostok.

Oki Doki is located just across the street from Vladivostok’s train station on Aleutskaya Street (ул. Алеутская). The interior of the café is similar to a fast food restaurant with its bright colors and pictures of perfect-looking foods hanging on the walls. The atmosphere has almost an American feel to it, which I personally found unappealing in Russia. Yet, the place is always packed with customers. (A side note: In my experience, Oki Doki, oddly, attracts some of the city’s most beautiful woman.)

The foundation of the menu is obviously the pizza. Starting from 52 rubles for a pretty large slice to 208 rubles for a whole pizza, the types of pizza include cheese, meat, vegetable, Hawaiian (seemingly a favorite of the locals), and seafood (with what looked like crab). Oki Doki’s pizza would best be compared to Sabarro’s in America: greasy, quickly cooked, and served in big slices. Also, pizzas only come in one size, somewhere between a medium and a large. You can also order burgers (70 rubles), soups (50 rubles), pelmeni and fries (30-40 rubles), and drinks, such as sodas, tea, coffee, or water.

Above: Oki-Doki pizza feast!

Just as at any fast food restaurant, you order up and the counter and wait for your food. The cashiers can be a bit snippy, but if you tell them you are American, they are a lot nicer and more understanding. They even gave me my pizza before the people who had been waiting in line in front of me! They also offer carryout. While they don’t deliver (I have yet to find delivery for any food in Vladivostok), they can throw a pizza in a box for you, similar to carryout in America, which can be convenient.

If you are looking for a quick slice of pizza and you don’t really care about quality, then give Oki Doki a try. If you are missing America (especially American fast food), the café will remind you of a McDonald’s or Domino’s pizza. It seems to be a common hangout for college-age people, so you might be able to make a few friends there, perhaps even with the supermodel-esque women that frequent the café!

For groups and faculty-led tours, Oki Doki can be good, cheap option – especially as they offer carry out in case the place is too full to sit a larger group.

12/20/2011

VIII Международный джазовый фестиваль / VIII International Jazz Festival 
Приморская Краевая Филармония / Primorskyi Krai Philharmonic
Светланская ул., 15 / Svetlanskaya Street, 15   
Tickets: 300 - 3000 Rubles

Above: Michael prepares to be cultured at the Jazz Festival in Vladivostok! Below: The view from the "nosebleed" section - the sound was still good, though!

As a former trombone player who has dabbled in a little jazz over the years, I was excited to hear that Vladivostok holds a yearly International Jazz Festival. I even started planning for it before getting here. But, along with my feelings of excited anticipation, there was also a hint of skepticism. Historically, jazz was demonized by the government during the Soviet Union, labeled as “vulgar” and “demoralizing.” Given this record with jazz, I was worried that the festival wouldn’t bring in a huge crowd and would end up generally unappreciated.

I attended the fourth day of the festival at Vladivostok’s philharmonic concert hall, located on Vladivostok’s main street, Svetlanskaya. I’d recently attended a performance of the opera The Marriage of Figaro, so I considered myself to be a part of Vladivostok’s historic intelligentsia (unfortunately, those intellectual circles don’t really exist here anymore). Purchasing a ticket was a breeze. I went to the касса (ticket booth) and told the woman I wanted a 500 ruble ticket. She then showed me the seats available for that amount and I simply pointed, paid my money, and went to the concert hall.

From my seat in the balcony, I was surprised to see that nearly all of the seats were sold out. The performance started shortly thereafter, and began with two Russian groups, the first of which was a teenage boy and girl, who performed a vocal duet. The second group was a quartet (piano, guitar, bass, and drum set), who performed a few short sets. I was really impressed with their improvisation. The group had some real creativity.

After the opening acts, the hall started to buzz with excitement in anticipation for the main event, an American jazz quartet featuring Ron “Black Trombone” Wilkins and Valeri Grohovski (piano). The group came out to enthusiastic applause and began their first song. I was instantly entranced, tapping my foot and swaying side to side. Halfway through the song, I noticed that no one else was really reacting to the music. I chalked it up to just a difference in cultures. But, after an amazing solo from the “Black Trombone,” the hall went crazy, cheering and clapping as loud as any American audience. The main act last about 80 minutes, and during that time I realized that Russia has just as great of an appreciation for jazz music as America. I even ran into one of my teachers after the concert, and we talked a bit about how much we liked the music.

For anyone who is lucky enough to be in town during this festival, I highly recommend grabbing a cheap seat up in the balcony. While none of the groups are known world-wide, they are undoubtedly talented. Even if you can’t get to this particular festival, make a stop at the philharmonic. It doesn’t look like much from outside (it actually looks like every other building surrounding it), but the concert hall was recently renovated and is absolutely gorgeous inside. They have major performances once or twice a week and tickets can be as little as 300 rubles for an orchestra concert. Not only will you see a good performance, but you’ll get the feeling of what it was like to be a part of Vladivostok’s музыкльно-драматический кружок (music and drama club).

 12/02/2011

Кофейка / Kofeika
Cafeteria / Coffee-Cocktail Bar
Светланская ул., 23
Hours of Operation: Open 24 hours a day (круглосуточно)
Price: $4-$8 (as low as 100 rubles for business lunch)

Above: Kofeika's simple, hearty menu. Below: Kofeika's "nostalgic" interior.

Usually when I ask locals for advice concerning a cheap place to eat, they either tell me to cook for myself or point me to a restaurant where you can’t get a meal for fewer than 15 dollars. However, Кофейка was recommended to me by a few people and it turned out to be the ideal Vladivostok place to grab a cheap bite. They serve traditional Russian fare for outrageously cheap prices, as well as various coffee-based and alcoholic drinks.

Located on Svetlankskaya Street, just a block away from the movie theater Океан, Кофейка can act as a either a café, restaurant, bar, or just a place to relax. The interior of the restaurant is split into 4 different sections, the cafeteria and 3 separate eating areas, one of which includes a coffee-cocktail bar. In terms of the atmosphere, the restaurant is warm and welcoming. One of the sections seems to always be filled with 16-21 year olds, while another usually holds a couple of navy sailors enjoying a meal.

When you walk in, you simply grab a tray, get in line, and ask for (or point at) whatever it is you want to eat. And there’s no need to worry about your dishes as they clean them up when you leave. Кофейка’s menu is pretty standard, including a variety of salads, soups, pastries and deserts, entrees, and drinks. I was personally amazed by the variety of soups and salads they had. There were upwards of 10-15 different types of salad, and bean, fish, chicken noodle soups, as well as traditional borsch. The main entrees were exactly what you would expect from such a restaurant: fish, meat, potatoes, etc.

I went with Joss (another American student) for dinner, and we both ate for about 200 rubles each. My meal included a small potato pasty (8 rubles), chicken noodle soup (45 rubles), potatoes (24 rubles), a piece of halibut (117 rubles), and a sugary pastry (8 rubles). The food was simple, yet absolutely delicious. I left feeling very full and satisfied. If you really need to save, they have a good deal in their two business lunches, the эконом (economy lunch) and traditional бизнес-ланч (business lunch). The economy lunch, which costs 100 rubles, consists of soup, salad and tea, while the business lunch adds on an entrée for an extra 50 rubles.

Кофейка is an all-around great place to eat. The food is tasty and fresh, and the people that work there are generally friendly, making it a comfortable place to eat traditional Russian food. The fact that it’s one of the few cheap places to eat that is open past 10 o’clock makes it a perfect place to relax if you are out after curfew, perhaps visiting the city’s night clubs. And, if you are really pinching your pennies, the business lunch options are ideal.

For groups and faculty-led tours, Кофейка is a great option. The central location, fast service, and low prices should make this an ideal location!

12/10/2011

Event:
Election Protests in Vladivostok
 

On Saturday, December 10th, approximately 500 people in Vladivostok held a protest on Svetlanskaya street against the results of the recent Duma election. The election results in Vladivostok, especially for United Russia, differed quite a bit from the nationwide results. United Russia received only 33.3% of the votes (against the national average of 49%), while the Communist Party received 23%, and both the Liberal-Democrats and A Just Russia ended up with 18-19%. Despite the square being filled with passionate people, the protests were peaceful. The 20 or so police officers there, who were unarmed and remained uninvolved and mostly ignored.

In spite of the cold, the protests carried on for two hours. While a variety of political affiliations were represented, nearly everyone was in support of the notion that the current political system needs to be changed. The majority of the protestors were young and yet notable in the crowd were flags in support of the Communist Party (note again, the support of the Communists in the election) and ТИГР (The Fellowship of Active Russian Citizens).

Some popular slogans of the day included “Reverse the election results!” “Freedom for those imprisoned, Jail for those who falsified!” and “Hey, Kremlin, We’re against you!” which was flown on the back of the bicycle of the city’s most well-known activist, Pavel Zubtsov. Another protest has been organized for December 18 at 5:00 PM.

I personally discussed the election results with various teachers and students at VGUES, and was left feeling very confused. The students that I talked to who actually voted (they were given free movie tickets for voting) generally supported United Russia. Many of them seemed to think it was the “cool” thing to do. A group of girls simply joked around about how much they love Putin and Medvedev, yet they didn’t seem to know about the politicians’ positions on anything. When I asked another student why he voted for United Russia, he briefly answered, “Just because.” One student, who has openly expressed his disapproval of United Russia, said that he simply didn’t vote, because he felt his vote wouldn’t matter.

Regarding the teachers, none of them personally told me who they voted for. In fact, I got the feeling that many of them were ashamed of how they voted. Whether that means they voted for United Russia or an oppositionist party, I don’t know. I’m not sure which party they feel like they should have voted for, but didn’t. I do know, however, that rector of the school, who is a member of United Russia, was re-elected to his role in the region’s legislative assembly.

12/03/2011

Event:
Deputy Prime Minister Shuvalov Visits VGUES
 

Above: Igor Shuvalov, a Deputy Prime Minister of the Russian Federation, speaks to students at VGUES. Below: A foriegn student asks a question at the event.

While I wasn’t able to sit down with my family for a traditional Thanksgiving Day meal, I was treated to a certain Thanksgiving day surprise.  About a week before Thanksgiving, we Americans studying at VGUES were informed that Igor Shuvalov, a Deputy Prime Minister of the Russian Federation, was going to be visiting VGUES to talk about Russia’s investment in Vladivostok, and the upcoming APEC conference for which practically the whole city is being rebuilt.  Vladivostok often plays host to important figures in the government.  Its status of “Russia’s Third Capital” (after Moscow and St. Petersburg) allows it such events.  In fact, the head of the oppositionist party A Just Russia, Sergei Mironov, had visited only a week earlier.  Unfortunately, I was unable to attend that meeting due to my class schedule.

According to the school’s Administration of International Connections, Shuvalov was going to be opening up the auditorium to questions from students, and he would be especially excited to hear the questions that the American students came up with.  We all spent time thinking of appropriate (and politically correct) questions to ask the person who is often cited as third most powerful politician in behind Vladimir Putin and Dmitry Medvedev.  It was quite nerve-wracking!

When Thanksgiving came, I found that I was filled with a sense of excitement, despite missing being home for the holidays.  We were dismissed from class early and led to the auditorium.  There, we were given special seats.  In front of us were students from the Moscow Naval Academy, and across the aisle were important city officials, including the mayor.  The mix of that and the large number of cameras focused on us was quite intimidating, but we didn’t give it too much thought.

Shuvalov came out to polite applause and began his presentation at once.  He spoke at length about his past (apparently, he even studied at University of Wisconsin – Madison for a year!) and how anybody who puts a little effort in can become a Deputy Prime Minister of Russia.  After that, he spoke very passionately about his worries concerning the lack of young adults turning out at the elections.  Finally, he said a few brief words about the government’s investment in the Far East.

Shuvalov then opened up the floor to questions.  To his distaste, he was barraged with questions from a few students concerning alleged corrupt acts of United Russia, and the government’s overall mismanagement of certain situations.  Christy and Otter (two of the American students studying at VGUES this semester) were given their turn, and they asked about specific spheres of investment and economic free zones in the Far East, as well as the Russian Federation’s efforts to fight climate change. 

After listening to 15-16 questions, he began to speak about his lack of knowledge concerning United Russia’s corrupt acts, and how he was not involved.  He repeated over and over, “I am Putin’s man.”  At that, he expressed his aversion to the questions asked, but did his best to address the questions that he felt he was capable of answering as an official face of the government.  He addressed Otter and Christy’s questions succinctly (“We are doing our best concerning climate change.  The US and China have a bigger responsibility to deal with that issue.”  “We are currently examining the question of economic relations with China in the Far East.”), as well as the questions of the other students, who were allowed to come based on their excellent grades.

While unexpected, this direct experience with the Russian government, and, through it, the Russian culture was quite eye-opening.  For me, at least, it opened my eyes to how the young perceive their country and its government.  It also made me realize that Russia has many of the same problems that America has, e.g., a lack of young voter turnout, the economic crisis of 2008, apathetic citizens, etc.  All in all, I was really glad to have this special experience, and I’m sure there will be more of the sort during the rest of my six months here.

12/01/2011

Точка Суши  / Tochka Sushi 
ул. Светланская, 4 
Price: $8-$12, Business Lunch for ~$8

Above: The interior at Tochka Sushi Below: A business lunch at Tochka Sushi

Being from central Illinois, I don’t eat a whole lot of sushi. Yet, when I found out that I was going to be living in Vladivostok, with all of its eastern influences, I knew I would have give it a try. I’ve now been to a few different sushi places in Vladivostok, and can say that Точка суши offers the best value. It’s located right next to the Oкеан movie theatre, and is a perfect place for grabbing a quick sushi meal before or after a movie.

Точка суши is in fact a chain, and has many different restaurants located throughout the city. One of the branches (paired up with a pizza shop) is even a sort of walk-up shop, where you simply order and take the food home. However, the Точка суши I’m writing about is a sit-down café which only recently opened. Being so close to the theatre, the theme of this Точка суши is "Кино-кафе" (Cinema-café). The walls of the café are lined with small TVs, which constantly play movies, anime, and cartoons. While the idea seems nice, the execution needs some work, as the audio of the movie can sometimes drown out your conversation. Not only that, but, unless you get a booth, you are probably going to be uncomfortable hunched over on a little stool.

But, despite some of these minor negatives about the environment, the food is incredibly tasty. Their menu (they even have English menus, if you ask for them) is quite large. There are upwards of 30 different types of sushi and rolls. They also list various seafood salads. If you want something cooked, they offer hot dishes, including cooked eel with teriyaki sauce, salmon kebabs, and dumplings. Sushi is usually priced between 150 and 300 rubles, depending on the type of fish. For example, I usually get California Rolls, which are about 150 rubles. Red California Rolls (with red caviar) cost another 50 rubles. The hot dishes range from about 100 rubles for the little kebabs to 300 rubles for fried dumplings. Salads are anywhere between 200 and 400 rubles. The reason I picked this place over others, however, is because they offer a great deal in their “business lunch”, which is available Monday-Friday from noon until 4 pm. The meal includes a cup of tea, 8 sushi rolls (4 California and 4 Aguro), a huge bowl of rice, and your choice of entrée (kebabs, dumplings, or miso soup). All of this costs only 235 rubles, and would normally cost 400 on the regular menu.

The service in this café is amazing, almost to the point of being creepily fast. The kitchen opens up onto the sitting area, and the waitresses tend to hover over your every move. No more than 10 seconds after you finish a plate or use a napkin, they are whisking them away from you. Yet, this also means that you can get your order placed and check paid as soon as you want. So, if you are in a hurry and want sushi (which can often mean an hour-long meal in Vladivostok), this place is for you.

My final verdict for this place is that, if you don’t mind waitresses constantly staring at you or the occasional loud movie track, then this place is the best bang for your buck in terms of sushi. The food is fresh, the service is quick, and it's located near other good “date” points. While the café would have trouble fitting a large group of people, Точка суши is a perfect place for a quick sushi bite with a few friends.

For groups and faculty-led tours, Точка суши is probably not a good option as the establishment is small and often busy. If you can order some take-away (particularly if you do it in advance) and head elsewhere with it, however, it can be a reasonably quick and cheap option.

11/28/2011

Republic
Океанский проспект, 17 
Meals for ~$5-$8

Above: Joss enjoying a kebab at Republic Below: The modern interior at Republic

It’s my first time in Vladivostok, so I wasn’t exactly sure what places to check out. Of those students living at VGUES, most typically prepare their own meals, so asking them for their advice ended up being a bad idea. My first trip was to a pan-Asian restaurant called Zuma, where the cheapest snacks were at least $7 or $8 and my final bill ended up being closer to $20 – which is bit much for a single meal on a student budget. I then decided to get advice from another American student, who suggested I go to a restaurant called Republic. As it turns out, it was a perfect choice and has several locations all across town.

Location / Food / Service

The particular outlet where we ate is located just a block away from the main bus stop, Semyonovska, in the center of Vladivostok. We got off the bus, walked up the street past Vladivostok’s Subway restaurant and found the giant building with blue-tinted glass. There is no sign, so you have to look for the RosBank sign. Then, head in and find the place on the second floor.

Just like any cafeteria-style restaurant, you grab your tray and go through the line, asking for whatever it is you would like to eat. They had a great selection. The first station had 3-4 different types of broths and soups to choose from, as well as a few choices of additions like bread crumbles or an egg. The next station had salads, and Joss, the other American SRAS student who accompanied me, was happy to see an American-style salad with feta cheese. The third station had typical hot dishes like potatoes, kebabs, and different types of fish and meats with various spices. I chose potatoes and a kebab that had spices that you don’t often find in Russian dishes. Finally, Joss and I both grabbed a cheap pastry. The prices are listed in front of every food, so you can see how much you are spending as well as what exactly you are ordering. Finally, you get around to the cashier and find drinks like sodas, water, teas, and juices.

The prices were extremely cheap for the quality of food. I got a cup of chicken broth with dill and bread crumbles for $1.00, potatoes for $1.15, a kebab for $1.30, a sugary pastry for $.45, and a water for $1.00. All in all, it was an extremely filling meal for the price. Joss got a nearly identical meal, except she had a $2.00 salad in place of the potatoes, and a $.50 tea instead of water. After our meal, we noticed that most (if not all) of the other patrons had beer, so we found the bar at the back and ordered a tasty beer for ourselves. At $2.70 for a third liter, $3.30 for a half liter, and $5.00 for a liter, the beer on tap was very reasonably priced and came in three different flavors: light, red, and dark. They also sold typical bar snacks like nuts and popcorn for a few dollars.

The interior of the restaurant itself would best be described as similar to the interior of a classy bistro in America. With some big screen TVs and a great view of the city and the sea from the booth seats, the place seemed to be a common place for young professionals to hang out and drink with their friends after a day of work. The music was a bit loud at times, but didn’t ruin our overall positive impression of the place.

Conclusion

If you are looking for somewhere a little more upscale looking, yet with cheap prices, this is the place for you. Being able to see the food before you order is also nice for those feeling a bit iffy about ordering things off a Russian menu, which can be difficult to understand at first. Republic is also a good place if you are looking for somewhere that has cheap beer that isn’t a smoky bar.

For groups and faculty-led tours, Republic is a great option. The central location, spacious seating, fast service, and low prices should make this a definite must for any group!

11/21/2011

Приморский Государственный Объединенный Музей им. В.К. Арсеньева / Primorsky State Associated Museum of V.K. Arsenyev
Светланская ул., 20 / Svetlanskaya Street, 20  
Hours of Operation: 9:30 a.m. – 5 p.m., Tuesday – Sunday
Cost: 100 Rubles (70 with student ID), plus another 100 to use a camera

Above: At WWII exibition at the City Museum Below: Local wildlife shown at the City Museum

Walking around Vladivostok recently, I noticed an advertisement for a photography exhibition put together by an American. A few days later, the same exhibition and the museum it was in were recommended to me by one of VGUES’ staff members. In the end, I decided to check it out what I thought was going to be a small gallery with black and white photos hanging on the wall. Boy was I wrong.

That’s how I discovered the Приморский Государственный Объединенный Музей им. В.К. Аревеньева, or the Primorsky State Associated Museum of V.K. Arsenyev, one of two museums in the city named after the explorer Vladimir Klavdiyevich Arsenyev. While the name of the museum doesn’t exactly reflect it, the museum’s exhibits focus on the nature, history, and culture of the Primorsky Krai, with an emphasis on Vladivstok. The entrance fee is 100 rubles, but if you flash a student ID, you can get in for only 70 rubles. I paid an extra 100 so that I could take pictures as well, and, in my opinion, it was worth it as there were a lot of interesting things to see.

The museum is composed of three floors, each devoted to a different area of study of the region. The first floor focused on the nature found in the Primorsky Krai. There were several rooms filled with taxidermy of all different local sorts. In one of the rooms on the first floor, there was a stuffed tiger fighting a bear, and a tour guide leading a group of school kids took a poll from the children to find out who would win that fight. The vote was unanimous for the Amur tiger, the animal that the region is famous for (it’s even on the city’s coat of arms). Each individual exhibit detailed the Russian and scientific names of all the plants and fauna. However, none of the information was in English.

The top floor consists of four rooms, which detailed the discovery, settlement, and expansion of Vladivostok. In one exhibition room, I found three- to four-thousand-year-old artifacts. These included pots, tools, and decorations. We’d recently been reading a lot about the founding of Vladivostok and the Primorsky Krai at VGUES, so it was interesting to see all the old photos of the explorers that we had been learning about. There was also a large diorama depicting Vladivostok’s main streets (Алеутская and Светланская, the corner of which the museum itself is located on) as they were over one hundred years ago, as well as a slideshow of pictures of early Vladivostok being played nearby.

The top floor had three different exhibits. The first was the photo exhibit that had originally attracted me to the museum. Put together by the American photographer, James Chressanthis, the exhibit “Faces of Vladivostok” was composed of his own black-and-white photos of people around Vladivostok. The next room was dedicated to a children’s art competition and was filled with different paintings, stitching, dioramas, and more that had been sent in by children of the Primorsky Krai. The quality of work was truly amazing considering the ages of some of the children. The final section of the top floor concerned the Primorsky Krai’s involvement in the Russian Civil War and World War II. On display were various maps, weapons, and medals found during those periods. They even had some supplies taken from Nazi soldiers (the boots looked like they weighed 50 pounds!).

This museum is one of those obligatory places that any person living in Vladivostok should visit. While there’s not a whole lot of written information and almost no information in English, the museum does a good job of conveying the history and nature of the region. If you want to have a good look at everything, plan on spending 40-50 minutes in this museum. There’s simply a lot to see. Also, bring a friend and you can even spend hours debating the fighting merits of bears and tigers of the Primorsky Krai!

11/14/2011

Музей Автомотостарины  / Museum of Automotoantiquity 
ул. Сахалинская, 2А / Sakhalinskaya Street, 2A 
Hours of Operation: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m., Tuesday – Sunday
Cost: 50 Rubles

Above: Motorcycles at the Auto Museum Below: A WWII era truck at the Auto Museum

I recently went to the Музей Автомотостарины, (The Museum of Antique Cars and Motorcycles). As I’m not exactly a car enthusiast, I was initially skeptical. However, the exhibition quickly grew on me, and I walked out with a smile on my face. For those who are interested in old, Soviet vehicles, I would highly recommend this museum, which is the first of its kind in Russian. For those not so fascinated by cars or motorcycles, you might be interested to see some of the war machines used during World War II. Give it a chance!

The museum was opened in March of 2002, with the goal of collecting, preserving, and restoring Soviet cars and motorcycles. My group didn’t have a guide, so we had free reign over the museum to look at whatever we wanted. The museum itself had three different types of exhibits: old cars that were made or used in the Soviet Union, a hall dedicated to motorcycles and motocross competition, and a special exhibit of Soviet vehicles used in WWII. The first exhibit displayed a variety of Soviet cars (and some American ones, too, that were used in the USSR!). When I inquired about the origin of the American cars in Russia, I was informed that they appeared during WWII when the Russians and Americans were allies. Listed in front of the cars, in both English and Russian, were not only the names and year of production, but also more information for car buffs, such as information about the type of engine.

The second room, or rather, hallway, was lined with an assortment of motorcycles, chronicling the development and appearance of motorcycles in the Soviet Union and detailing their technical specifications. Along the opposite side of the hallway were different car and motorcycle parts. At the end of the motorcycle hallway was another room filled with motorcycles, but this time it was dedicated to the sport of motorcycle racing. Different pictures of famous Soviet racers were featured and descriptions were written about them.

The final room displayed various military vehicles used by the Soviet Union during WWII. This room was particularly interesting for me, because not only are there vehicles displayed, but also weapons and some propaganda posters! In fact, the whole museum is littered with Soviet era posters and propaganda, which are worth noting.

The museum itself is located in an unadorned building on Sakhalinskaya Street. Any taxi driver should know how to get there, however. Unfortunately, there aren’t any nearby bus routes, despite being not all that far from the center. While our group didn’t have a guide, feel free to ask the museum’s workers any questions. They were extremely friendly and welcoming to our group of foreigners. If you are interested in history, I would definitely recommend this museum. It’ll interest not only car enthusiasts, but also anyone looking for a different view from which to examine Soviet history.

11/07/2011

 Ух ты, блин / Oh Wow, Blin (Dang)
9 улица Адмирала Фокина
Blini/Pancake House
Meals for $5 - $8

Above: A blin with walnuts and honey.

The mere name of the restaurant, Ух ты, блин, was enough to get me interested in this place. Set on Admiral Fokina, Vladivostok's major pedestrian shopping street, the restaurant stands out against the horde of clothing and bootleg CD shops that surround it. Oh Wow, Blin (as I have translated, although, блин, the singular for blini is also Russian slang that means roughly "dang," but which is perhaps a bit more offensive in Russian), is just a few blocks away from the major downtown bus stop, Semyonovskaya, and is less than 3 minutes away from the beach.

The outside of the restaurant is eye-popping with its bright yellow paint and distinctive sign. It’s hard to miss when walking down Fokina. The inside of the restaurant is best described as cozy. There were only about 6 or 7 small tables, pretty tightly packed together. Yet, this seemed to only add to the endearing nature of the little blini shop. The walls were painted with bright pinks and yellows, and decorated with ornaments making it all reminiscent of a tea room you might find in your great aunt’s house in America.

Above: The distinctive sign and name of Ух ты, блин.

While the restaurant is a sit-down café, you order your food up at the counter when you walk in. There they have two menus, one entirely devoted to blini, and the other with drinks and regular entrees. There were upwards of 20 to 25 different types of blini available, including blini with cheese, sour cream, vegetables, chicken, honey, condensed milk, nuts, and more. All of the blini ranged in price from 50-150 rubles (except for blini with caviar, which was 220 rubles). On the other half of the menu, you can find many different drinks, such as various teas, coffees, and cold beverages. In terms of regular entrees, they offer different soups and meats.

I was very pleased with my meal, which consisted of a pot of mint tea (55 rubles), a steaming bowl of borsch (84 rubles and it had some of the freshest vegetables I’ve had yet in Vladivostok), and a blin with honey and walnuts (64 rubles). Joss, a fellow student and my dinner companion, had an Americano coffee, a blin with honey and walnuts, and a blin with cheese, carrots, tomatoes, and chicken, all for less than 200 rubles. Ice cream was also on the menu, but after our meal, Joss and I decided to forego getting more sweet food. The prices for the ice cream were between 60 and 90 rubles, and it appeared that they had many typical flavors that you would find in America.

All in all, I would highly recommend  Ух ты, блин to anyone looking for really good Russian blini. I’ve personally never seen anywhere else with such a large variety of blini options. This restaurant is also a good place to relax and do homework. The atmosphere was very welcoming, and the music wasn’t as distracting or loud enough to make conversation difficult, as can be the case in some Russian restaurants. However, if you are looking for a place with a more substantial meal, for instance, with full meat and vegetable entrees, I would suggest finding somewhere else. In my opinion,  Ух ты, блин serves best as a place for a cheap meal or a relaxed date.

10/29/2011

Paleo Village 
Near Nakhodka Village, 3 hours from Vladivostok
Open from 10am to 6pm, Closed Mondays
Entrance: 1000-1500 Rubles (not including transportation)

Above: A guide presents traditional housing and clothing from the ancient Russian Far East.

Have you ever been curious about who lived in Russia’s Far East before the Russians? Well, the Paleo Village is just the place to learn about the ancient inhabitants of the Asia’s far eastern shores. Located near the city of Nakhodkha (Находха), about three hours from Vladivostok, the “Paleo Village,” an open-air museum, is located on top of an archeological dig site that is still in use today. I was given the chance to visit the museum thanks to the teachers at VGUES through my program with The School of Russian and Asian Studies.

If you don't go with a student group, getting to the museum might be a bit of work, but it is definitely worth the trip. Our excursion, entirely in Russian, began with a time-travel-esque tour through the various epochs of the Far East. Beginning in the Stone Age, our group was shown how the region’s first inhabitants, the Udegetsi (Удэгецы), survived the harsh environment nearly 30,000 years ago. Our tour guide, sitting inside a replica teepee, demonstrated how the natives created tools out of sharp stones to be used for hunting and fishing. We were even given the opportunity to try our hand at making fire using an ancient device.

We next traveled into the Neolithic and Iron Ages, where we were treated to "traditional Udegetsi tea," which the museum staff informed us was made from the very same berries that grew in the region during those times long past.

After learning about the tribes’ earliest homes, we were invited to participate in several Udegetsi games. As the first residents of the region were primarily hunters and fishers, children’s games focused on making each member as fit as possible. We jumped, fought, shot bows and arrows, and even had a friendly “fishing” competition, all with the goal of making us more productive members of the Udegetsi tribe.

Above: Michael (right) tries a traditional game.

Returning to the modern day, the focus of the tour turned towards the scientific aspect of the museum, that is, its archaeological importance. Group members got to try their hand at being archaeologists. Equipped with shovels and spades, we carefully dug up and sifted through the dirt, looking for archeological finds (археологические находки) in a 10x10 meter section called a matrix. There were also small “archaeology puzzles” available to be solved, like putting together the pieces of an ancient pot. Continuing our study of archaeology, we were led on a hike to see where the archaeologists discovered their original findings. After a few minutes of walking up a dirt path, we came across a moss-covered hedge, which very clearly marked the entrance of the ancient village discovered by the archaeologists. A little further along the path and we got our first glimpse of the archaeological dig, an area about one hundred meters by one hundred meters. Walking around this space, with the sun throwing its occasional rays on the ground, I really got a feeling for what it was like to live there thousands of years ago.

Returning to the main part of the museum with this sensation, I felt prepared to participate in the next part of the tour, a ceremonial blessing from a "shaman" (really just the tour guide dressed up in the traditional shaman clothing). Holding hands, we jogged in a circle to the beating of drums and the ringing of bells. Following this, our tour group was offered ribbons to tie to the trees, symbolizing a wish we could make from the spirits of the land. Each color represented a different type of wish. Red was for a healthy family life, blue, for good grades in school, and green, for money. (I felt I needed a lot of help, so I took all three!) The tour ended in lunch, which consisted of pilaf (плоф), tomatoes (помидоры), ginger bread (пряник), and tea (чай).

All in all, I would highly recommend this tour to anyone interested in not only learning the history of the region’s ancient inhabitants, but especially those who want to get a feeling for what it was like to live in the Primorsky Krai 10,000-30,000 years ago. In order to get to the museum, you either have to arrange a ride through a tour agency (which might be the easiest way), or take a bus to Nakhodka and then catch a taxi to the museum, outside the town, near the village of Ekaterinovka. If interested, perhaps contact the tour agency Lucky Tour (luckytour.com), and they should be able to help set up a bus or taxi for your convenience, or call the museum (4236) 65-88-86 and ask for directions to give a taxi. Also, the museum also allows people, of any age, interested in helping the archaeologists that come every summer, to come and volunteer.

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