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EURASIAN COOKBOOK  / KOREAN SPARZHA
22.01.2015


Sophia Rehm graduated from the University of Chicago with a BA in Russian Language and Literature. Sophia is currently an SRAS Home and Abroad Scholar in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. She hopes to return to Russia and pursue literary translation and further studies of Russian literature.

This article was published as part of SRAS's free monthly newsletter. Want the newsletter?


  141203013729-141208114139-p-O-sparzha-s-morkovju-po-korejski
Узнайте как готовить спаржу по-корейски!  

Korean Sparzha
The Soy Dish That
Snuck Into The Russian Diet
By Sophia Rehm 

Jump to: recipes; videos; study abroad!

Спаржа по-корейски (Korean Sparzha; also called соевая спаржа; Soy Sparzha) has a misleading name. First, this unusual and beloved salad has nothing to do with спаржа, which means "asparagus" in Russian. Also perhaps misleading is the fact that, while invented by Koreans, it was not invented in Korea. Like морковь по-корейски (Korean carrot salad), спаржа по-корейски was born in the Soviet Union, in the Корё-сарам (Koryo-Saram) community of ethnic Koreans displaced to Central Asia by the large-scale deportation ordered by Stalin in 1937.

 
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Today, it is popular enough and common enough throughout Russia, Ukraine, and Central Asia to be often referred as simply "спаржа" in Russian. It is a salad made by skimming the foam from boiling soy milk (often referred to as "skin" or "beancurd") and drying it into rod shapes. Those rods can then be stored, boiled like pasta, and served with oil and spices.

While popular, спаржа по-корейски is an anomaly in Russia and post-Soviet states, where soy products are rare. You would most likely be hard-pressed to find someone in Russia who calls tofu a part of their diet.

Почему носит такое название?

The chief ingredient in спаржа по-корейски is usually called "dried tofu skin" or "dried beancurd" in English. It goes by many names in Russian. There is no consensus on why the dried rods of tofu skin are most often called спаржа (asparagus), but it is likely because they bear little resemblance to any other food most people are familiar with and perhaps bear some passing resemblance to the stalky vegetable, particularly the large, white variety of asparagus. It perhaps helps that asparagus in any form is actually another dish with which most Russians have little experience.

Regardless of the reason, the name confuses many fans of the dish, who believe that they are, in fact, eating asparagus in some form. The soy product is also sometimes referred to as юба (yuba), the Japanese word for the film on the surface of soymilk from which the product is made, or as фучжу (fuzhu), a Chinese name meaning “tofu bamboo,” for the rods it is sold in.

Beancurd is Chinese in origin, and has been used in both China and Japan for centuries. According to legend, it became popular thanks to Chinese Emperor Qin Shi Huang, who ruled from 246-210 BC and founded the Qin Dynasty. The legend has it that the Emperor requested an elixir of youth in his old age, and finally settled on beancurd out of the many concoctions brought to him.

2097157221_7  
The Koryo-Saram, a group of Koreans who were forcibly relocated to Central Asia by Stalin maintained a distinctly modified Korean culture. Particularly their culinary inventions left a great impact on Central Asia and the USSR as a whole.
 
   

The Корё-сарам Koreans likely adopted the dish out of necessity. Displaced to Central Asia, they had to turn to farming to feed themselves. As soy was common in their diet, many planted that crop. However, food was scarce, especially in the early years. Thus, preserving the nutritional value of the beancurd, which, like the soybeans that create it, is high in protein, made sense and was one way to preserve foods for the winter as well.

Как правильно есть спаржу по-корейски?

Спаржа по-корейски can be found in Russia and Central Asia in supermarkets and bazaars alongside other корейские салаты (Korean salads), among which it is considered a particular delicacy.

The popularity of спаржа по-корейски has grown in Russia in recent years due to touted health benefits. It is high in protein, and thought to positively affect blood pressure and cardiac health. Folk medicine promotes the dried soy product’s anti-inflammatory and diuretic properties.

Спаржа по-корейски is frequently bought as a prepared salad, and served as a side dish, often for guests since its unusual, savory taste is so widely appreciated. Dried спаржа can also be purchased in prepackaged dried form, or produced at home from soybeans. The salad can then be prepared at home fairly simply and quickly, though some recipes insist that for best results, the спаржа must be soaked for many hours before use.

  Соевая спаржа в пакете
Packaged dried beancurd sticks as sold in Russia.

Как правильно готовить спаржу по-корейски?

The фучжу, or tofu skin, in спаржа по-корейски is a by-product of boiled soymilk. It is also sometimes called соевая пенка (soy foam), because it is made by skimming off the layer of film that forms on soymilk when it boils. The film is suspended to dry, and sold in pale, wrinkled stalks known as соевая спаржа in Russia. In America, they can be found in Asian food stores or in the ethnic section of the some supermarkets as "dried beancurd sticks."

If store bought, be sure to check the expiration date before purchasing. While they will keep for a considerable time, spoiled beancurd will definitely spoil your salad. Also, check the back for sodium content. Many brands add considerable salt to the product to boost shelf life – but the heavy salt will also affect the flavor of your salad.

To prepare store-bought спаржа at home, it first needs to be softened. This can be accomplished by soaking it in cold water overnight (or for up to 24 hours), or by pouring boiling water over it and letting soak for 30-40 minutes, or by boiling it on the stove for 10-15 minutes. Many recipies insist the slower the soaking, the better, as it will more evenly and gently soften the stick and preserve its texture.

The softened, swelled soy is then usually chopped into small sticks about 1-inch long and prepared as a salad that closely resembles морковь по-корейски, with spices cooked in oil and poured over it. In fact, the carrot salad is sometimes added directly to спаржа по-корейски. The mix is often available along with the two salads in markets and supermarkets. Sometimes grated cucumbers or other fresh vegetables are added as well, although this is not as common in Russia.

The salad’s dressing usually includes soy sauce, garlic, vinegar, and oil that has been heated on the stove with chopped onion. The onion is often removed before the oil is poured over the salad. Red pepper and coriander are often added for spiciness. Once prepared, the salad marinates in the refrigerator for a few hours, and is then served as a side dish, or even as a main course over rice. The finished product is succulent, chewy, and distinctively flavorful.

Давай приготовим!

Спаржа по-корейски

Ингредиенты:

  1. Спаржа соевая –200 гр.
  2. Морковка по-корейски – 100 гр.
  3. Масло подсолнечное – 3 ст.л.
  4. Чеснок – 2 зубчика
  5. Лук репка – пол луковицы
  6. Кориандр молотый – 0,5 ч.л.
  7. Кунжут – 0,5 ч.л.
  8. Сахар – 1 ½ ч.л.
  9. Соевый соус – 2 ч.л.
  10. Уксусная эссенция 70%– 2 ч.л.
  11. Красный острый перец или паприка, черный перец, соль по вкусу

Приготовление:

  1.  Спаржу замочить в холодной воде примерно на 12 – 14 часов, сверху придавить тарелкой, чтобы спаржа вся покрылась водой. Воду периодически менять.
  2. Как только спаржа стала мягкой и упругой слить воду и нарезать на небольшие кусочки примерно 5 - 6 см.
  3. Cпаржу посолить по вкусу, я насыпала 1 ч.л.
  4. Налить уксусную кислоту, все перемешать. Дать постоять минут 10. 
  5. Слить выделившийся сок.
  6. Лук мелко нарезать и обжарить до полупрозрачности.
  7. Насыпать сахар, молотый кориандр, черный перец, красный острый или паприку, соевый соус, выдавить чеснок, налить масло с обжаренным луком. 
  8. Добавить морковь по - корейски. Все хорошо перемешать. Посыпать кунжутом.

Read the original recipe here.

Korean Sparzha

Ingredients:

  1. Soy sparzha – 7 oz
  2. Korean carrot salad – 3.5 oz
  3. Sunflower seed oil – 3 tbsp
  4. Garlic – 2 cloves
  5. Onion – half bulb
  6. Ground coriander - .5 tsp
  7. Sesame seeds – .5 tsp
  8. Sugar – 1.5 tsp
  9. Soy sauce – 2 tsp
  10. 70% Vinegar - 2 tsp
  11. Hot red pepper or paprika, black pepper, salt to taste

Preparation:

  1. Soak the sparzha in cold water for about 12-14 hours. Set a plate on top so that the sparzha is completely covered by the water. Change the water periodically.
  2. Once the sparzha becomes soft and elastic, drain the water and cut into small pieces, about 5-6 cm (about 2 inches).
  3. Salt the sparzha to taste (about 1 tsp)
  4. Add vinegar and mix well. Let stand 10 minutes.
  5. Drain separated juice.
  6. Finely chop the onion and fry until translucent.
  7. Add sugar, coriander, black pepper, red pepper or paprika, and soy sauce; press the garlic; add the oil with fried onions.
  8. Add Korean carrot salad. Mix well. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Соевая спаржа по-корейски

Ингредиенты:

  1. Кориандр сухой – 1 ст. л.    
  2. Лук репчатый – 1 шт.
  3. Масло подсолнечное рафинированное – 120 мл
  4. Морковь – 200 г
  5. Сахар – 1 ст. л.         
  6. Соль крупнокристаллическая – 1 ст. л.
  7. Соус соевый – 30 мл
  8. Соус чили острый – 20 мл
  9. Уксус винный белый – 4 ст. л.       
  10. Фучжу (соевая спаржа) – 250 г
  11. Чеснок – 2 зубчик    
  12. Чеснок сушёный гранулированный – 1 ст. л.

Приготовление:

  1. Залейте фучжу тёплой водой и оставьте на 8 часов при комнатной температуре. Затем промойте и нарежьте кусочками по 6-7 см.
  2. Натрите морковь на тёрке для корейских салатов.
  3. Добавьте соль, сахар, уксус, соевый соус и разотрите руками до появления сока.
  4. Разогрейте в ковше масло, выложите в него крупно нарезанные лук и чеснок. Обжарьте до золотистого цвета. Затем лук и чеснок можно спокойно выкинуть — они больше не понадобятся.
  5. Добавьте к моркови, острый соус, кориандр, гранулированный чеснок, залейте всё это кипящим маслом и перемешайте. Теперь отправьте закуску в холодильник минимум на 8 часов для маринования, за это время спаржа впитает все вкусы. Можно периодически перемешивать.
  6. Подавайте к столу!Приятного аппетита!
Read the original recipe here.

Korean Soy Sparzha (Spicy)

Ingredients:

  1. Ground coriander – 1 tbsp
  2. Onion – 1
  3. Refined sunflower seed oil - .5 cup
  4. Carrots – 7 oz
  5. Sugar – 1 tbsp
  6. Coarse salt – 1 tbsp
  7. Soy sauce – 2 tbsp
  8. Hot chili sauce – 4 tsp
  9. White wine vinegar – 3 tbsp
  10. Fuzhu (soy sparzha) – 8.8 oz
  11. Garlic – 2 cloves
  12. Garlic powder – 1 tbsp

Preparation:

  1. Cover the fuzhu in warm water and let stand for 8 hours at room temperature. Then rinse and cut into pieces 6-7 cm (2-3 inches) long.
  2.  Grate carrots on a Korean salad grater.
  3. Add salt, sugar, vinegar, and soy sauce, and use hands to mix well, until the mixture produces a juice.
  4.  Heat oil in a pot, and add coarsely chopped onion and garlic. Fry until golden. Then remove the onion and garlic, which are no longer needed.
  5. Add the hot sauce, coriander, and garlic powder to the carrot mixture, then add all ingredients to the boiling oil and mix well. Now put the salad in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours of marinating, to allow the sparzha to absorb all the flavors. You can stir it periodically.
  6. Serve! Bon appetite! 

Our Favorite Морковь по-корейски Videos

This clear video follows the first recipe above.

This segment by Жить здорово! (Healthy Living!, a program on Russia's Pervy Kanal) on спаржа по-корейски playfully covers the topic of соевая спаржа from every angle, including its name, how to choose high-quality спаржа, and how to prepare it. 

Blurb about video: This wordless but clear and well-shot video shows a slightly different way of preparing спаржа.The dried soy soaks in water mixed with spices and soy sauce for a few hours, and is then boiled in the same marinade until fully cooked. The result is not a salad, but simply соевая спаржаwith a similar flavor.


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