31.07.2006
Almaty City Information
Everything to know about staying awhileClickable Table of Contents I. Weather/Health Concerns (back to top)
Visitors are astonished at the abundance of snow and low temperatures that are so common in Russia. Even further south in Almaty, you will find that winter occupies a third or more of the calendar and a few days of –50F are certainly not unheard of. However, during the summer tourist season the thermometer will jump to around 100. In short, pack for every possibility. You might also leave some room in your budget to go clothes shopping in Almaty. Often, buying what the locals are wearing will yield you maximum comfort. The water here is generally safe to drink, but sticking to bottled, at least for straight drinking, is always recommended when traveling. Also recommended is to simply be mindful that you are in a big city, always know where you are going when hailing taxis and stay wary of anyone who offers too good a deal. II. Restaurants and Such (back to top) Traditional Experiences: Restaurants that provide “traditional” experiences are actually fairly rare here, and the market is flooded with western-style food. Inara (Kaldayakov 58; Tel: 917806) serves big and cheap plates of sashlyk (a sort of BBQ) and Solyanka (Panfilov 100; Tel: 626556) has Russian and Kazakh food salad bar style (outside in the summer!).
Roughin’ It Traditional: If you are really interested in a taste of “traditional Kazakh” your best bet may be the small cafes and stalls inside the marketplaces. Zelyony Bazaar is Almaty’s main market where you can by everything traditional from dried fruit to fermented camel’s milk. Check out the small cafes on its outskirts as well.
Specialty Tastes: You’ll find just about anything in Almaty from American to Korean. Govindas (Abylay Khan 39; Tel: 710836) is a trendy Indian restaurant and a great place for vegetarians. For those with a “taste” for Cold War history, try RVS (Furmanov, 103; Tel: 696241) where the food is American but the atmosphere is hard-core Soviet propaganda.
With Music: The Jazz Rock Café (Zheltolksan 118; Tel: 611864) has live Jazz Wednesday through Friday nights. It is not to be confused with the Rock Bar (Abylay Khan 85; Tel: 791968), which has recorded music ala Hard Rock.
With Romance: The Admiral Nelson (Kabanbai Batyr 71; Tel: 913374) has western food, decent music and a friendly crowd, but be wary of the occassional "too friendly" acquaitence.
And the Homesick: As stated before, getting homesick for English pub food, pizza, and American burgers is not likely to happen in cosmopolitan Almaty. Try the American Bar and Grill (Tole Bi 41; Tel: 505013), Mad Murphy’s Irish Pub (Tole Bi 12; Tel: 912856), or Pizzeria Veneia (Bostyk 87a; Tel: 640995).
And the Starbucks Addicted: No Starbucks here yet, but the coffee at Thomi’s is very good, accompanied by sweet and sticky pastries and franchised in shopping malls across the city. III. Music and Theatre (back to top) Abay State Theatre of Opera and Ballet (Kabanbai Batyr 110; Tel: 628445). Almaty’s Bolshoi - plays all the big names from Swan Lake to Carmen. Almaty Youth Theatre (Abylay Khan 38; Tel: 714237). Cutting edge dramatic theatre dealing with contemporary local social problems. Kurmangazy Conservatory (Abylay Khan 90; Tel: 679087). Inexpensive but very good and centrally located classical concerts. Philharmonic Central Concert Hall (Kaldayakov 35; Tel: 917541). A wide range of musical performances from local and foreign artists. IV. Internet Cafes (back to top) Fight Club is a chain of Internet/Gaming cafes (Zhibek Zholy 76; and the corner of Shevchenko and Dostyk). You will also find that the local universities are very well equipped with inexpensive Internet access for students. V. Doctors and Clinics (back to top) International SOS (Luganskogo 11; Tel 581911) provides English-speaking medical services, but is not cheap. Grace Clinic (Abay 159; Tel: 469448) provides Russian-speaking medical service and is inexpensive. VI. Museums and Monuments (back to top) Central State Museum (Furmanov 44; Tel: 642200) is an epic look at the country from early archeology (see the replica of "The Golden Man" - an ancient ceremonial suit of golden armor) to space flight and nuclear testing. Kasteyev Museum of Fine Arts (Satpaev 30a; Tel: 478356) presents lots of work from the Soviet era, as well as special exhibits of Kasakh artists banned during that era. See also the room of traditional handicrafts. The Museum of Repression (Nauryzbay Batyr 180; Tel: 478356) is just what you might guess from its name, a museum detailing the Kazakh experience under Stalin and the Soviets. The Museum of Archeology (44 Dostyk; Tel: 918585) is a collection of pottery and potshards from the region's ancient history. You'll also see other finds such as a life-size replica of "The Golden Man," (yes, another one).
The Museum of Books (94 Kabanbai Batyr St; Tel: 622213) contains a number of illuminated manuscripts and other antique books providing an interesting view of the area's historical cultures. The Zoological Museum (28 Shevchenko) shows the diverse natural history of Almaty. Republic Square (Respublika Alangy – it’s along Satpaev St.) contains the hideous but worth-saying-you-saw-it Presidential Palace and a very impressive Monument to Independence with scenes from Kazakh history carved around it. St. Nicholas Cathedral (Kabanbay Batyr, just down from Dynamo Stadium) is about as Russian a place you’ll find in Almaty, replete with golden cupolas. Old Talgar is about 35 km from Almaty and located near modern Talgar. The site is an exposed ruins of a once-prospering ancient town whose merchants and craftsmen participated in Silk Road trade before the Mongols overtook them. You may want to hire an archaeologist at the Kazakhstan Institute of Archeology. Contact the institute in advance at 91-86-63 or 91-85-85.
The Open-Air Museum is about 70 km from Almaty (in Esyk), but a must for anyone interested in ancient history. The Sacae burial mounds where the famous "Golden Man" was found have been excavated by the Kazakhstan Institute of Archeology and made, with the archaeological layers and a few finds exposed, a museum. You can contact the institute about travel and tours (see above). VII. Sports and Exercise (back to top) You’ll find that Almaty is very well equipped for fans of fitness. Daulet (Markova 183; Tel: 922069) is a large, reasonably priced sports club. The Public Swimming Pool (Abay 48) is a good place to do some laps. Ice skaters will find lots to do here with the largest skating rink in Central Asia at Medau (a short day trip away) and the Olympic Skating Rink (Satpaev St. – where several world records were set due to the low air density). For less strenuous exercise, try TPF Bowling (Satpaev St.). Medeu will make for an all-day activity, with Central Asia's largest skating rink, the nearby and fabulously inexpensive Shymbulak Ski Resort, and miles and miles of hiking trails. Take the number six bus from the Hotel Kazakhstan on Dostyk. Go on a weekday to avoid the crowds. Stay the night in yurt while you are there.
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